In Dallas, if not the state, the Rosewood Mansion on
Turtle Creek sets the standard of taste and class. So much so that when authors
such as Richardson’s own Dee Stuart use the location in her books it needs no
explanation. A must see and be seen place for any dignitary or celebrity the
restaurant is a classic that continues to evolve while carrying forward
tradition and Texas charm.
After a forward from renowned Chef Dean Fearing, who
developed a new southwest cuisine while at the mansion, there is a ten page
introduction detailing the famous history. Told through prose and pictures the
section goes into some detail about the past before giving way to the recipes.
The book, like any good meal, opens with “Appetizers.”
Starting on 22 this section covers such dishes as “Beef Sirloin Tartare with potato
crisps and quail egg” (page 24) or “Grilled Gulf Prawns with watermelon and cucumber
salsa” (page 29). Along with the recipes that do state the number of servings
the dish makes there also occasionally pictures of the completed recipes or
items of interest within the mansion or the suppliers to the mansion. Background information on the history of
those relationships and their role in proving quality food is included in the
book. While a dish is identifiable, unfortunately those pictures of other
interests relating to and in the mansion are not captioned. Also from a
cookbook standpoint a definite negative is the lack of nutritional information. This same format continues throughout the
book.
“Soups and Salads” are next and begin on page
48. Of course one would expect “Tortilla
Soup” (page 50) since this Texas but there are also other items such as “Spiced
Carrot Soup with Gulf shrimp ravioli” (page 60). If it is too hot for soup you
could try “Watermelon salad with feta cheese, pink peppercorn-cilantro
vinaigrette, and crispy prosciutto” (page 69) or a “Mansion Salad with fresh
herb vinaigrette and cheese croutons” (page 81) among other choices.
This is followed by “Fish and Shellfish” starting on
page 82. For years the restaurant has
been known for its snapper dish and “Seared Gulf Red Snapper (page 107) is here
along with another dozen choices.
It is time for meat and that begins in “Game and
Fowl.” Staring on page 108 these recipes
are duck and pleasant dishes, quail, and items such as “Braised Rabbit Pasta
with black olives and citrus” (page 119) as well as items such as “Whole
Roasted Chicken with tomatillo and ancho chile sauce” (page 130).
“Meat” featuring pork, bison and various other
dishes comes next starting on page 134. If you are hankering for a good steak
there is the “Oven-Roasted Bone-In Rib-Eye with crispy potato pancetta cake”
(page 147) or the “Roasted Dry-Aged Rib-Eye and braised short ribs with fondant
potatoes” on page 155 among other choices.
You do need your “Sauces & Sides” and these
begin on 158. Many of these have been covered earlier in the book and are
repeated here. There are new ones here as well such as “Mac and Cheese with
ham” on page 178.
Instead of logically moving onto desserts the book goes
to “Brunch” next with 8 recipes. “Mansion Egg Benedict” leads off this section
on page 182. It wouldn’t be a Texas cookbook without a recipe for “Huevos
Rancheros” (page 188). The section
concludes with “Foie Gras Doughnuts” on page 197.
Then it’s onto “Bar Food & Cocktails” with not a
bacon and cheese potato skin in sight. Instead it is “Texas Grits Fries with
chipotle aioli” (page 200) and “Lobster Sliders with tarragon aioli” (page 204)
among other choices.
Finally we get to Desserts” page 228. It opens with
“Peach Sundae with Champagne sabayon and red currants” (page 230) followed
later by “Spiced Mexican Chocolate Custard with Churros” (page 238) and
numerous other elegant choices. Of course their famous “Turtle Creek Pie” is present
here on page 242 with a recipe for “Lemon Pie with crispy meringue” ending the
chapter on page 245.
An index immediately begins on the following page
and goes the next eight pages. That is followed by a very short source guide
and a conversion chart.
Published by Rizzoli International Publications and printed in China the
book depicts style and elegance. A style and elegance that the brand new book
from the library was unable to maintain as my library copy already had a broken
spine when I picked it up off the hold shelf. Considering the high list price
one hopes that the clerk’s advice not to worry about it will prove to be true.
Featuring complicated and elegant recipes this book
reflects a far different world way beyond my means and cooking ability. Therefore
I can’t advise you as to the quality of the recipes as I didn’t even think for
a second about attempting any of these. Still for a sense of style and elegance
it is a cookbook to savor and appreciate as well as for the history contained
inside the 256 pages.
THE
MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK COOKBOOK: Haute Cuisine, Texas Style
Helen
Thompson
Photographs
by Robert M. Peacock
Rizzoli
International Publications, Inc.
2012
ISBN#
978-0-8478-3653-6
Hardback
256
Pages
$39.95
Material supplied by the good folks
of the Plano Texas Public Library System. Again this year the summer reading
challenge for adults and kids is now underway. For more information go to
Kevin R. Tipple © 2012
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